Cashmere Lop Rabbit Care Sheet

Scientific Facts

Common Name:	Cashmere Lop
Scientific Name:
Life Span:	8 years or more
Size:
Habitat:	Grasslands, woods, and meadows
Country of Origin:	Wales, United Kingdom

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Overview

This rabbit is a newer breed that was discovered by Miss Turner of Wales in the year 1980. It was within the nest of Dwarf Lop. Miss Turner observed something among the kits. They had longer, more luxurious, and thicker coat than the others.

After 6 years, the Cashmere Lop became popular, and it started to be part of shows in the middle of the 1990s. this rabbit got more audience, and breeders worked on this breed, making it more standardized.

After the National Cashmere Lop Club was established, it recognized Cashmere in various colors, and it has become more popular in the world. Then, the Cashmere Miniature came into existence after 10 years. Like the first one, it was standardized in all colors. Both breeds were recognized by BRC or the British Rabbit Council but not by ARBA or the American Rabbit Breeders Association.

Physical Description

The Cashmere Lop has a firm, compact, and thickset body built. Despite being small, the body is powerful, known to be well-muscled, broad, and short with the little neck. The rump short, well-rounded, and muscled. The chest is broad and deep. The upperparts, like the body, are strong, bold, and broad. The cheeks are fully developed too. Ears are furry, rounded at the ends, long, broad, and thick. The eyes are bold and bright. The crown is so permanent across its skull. Going down, its front legs are thick, short, and straight, while the hinds are strong, short, and powerful. The tail is also strong and well-furred.

Its coat is thick, long, and silky. The fur measures 1.5 to 2 inches and not wooly. The topcoat is denser and longer than its undercoat. With their unique cot, they don’t need more work than the other breeds, especially at their young age. At 5 months, the coat tends to be knotted and matted. Thus, it will need grooming sessions with a wire comb for dogs and cats. As you comb, don’t comb the density in the undercoat. Use the comb to break the tangles out and mats part. When it turns adult, do the grooming weekly and trim the nails as well. Pluck the tangles out and the dead hairs too to make the coat beautiful, giving your pet comfort.

Cashmere lop comes in all colors, namely, agouti, squirrel, opal, cinnamon, lynx, Chinchilla, black, blue, chocolate, lilac, white, blue-eyed white, and ruby-eyed. Others are marten smoke, otter, fox, marten sable, fawn, orange, steel, chocolate tort, Siamese sable, sooty fawn, Siamese smoke, Isabella, seal point, blue point, grey, and iron.

Size and Weight

The Cashmere Lop is a medium-sized rabbit that weighs between 1.8 to 2.3 kilograms.

Country of Origin

It was in 1980 when this rabbit was developed in Wales. In the same decade, when it was finally recognized as a breed.

Care Requirements

Like other rabbits, a Cashmere Lop is a great pet for the family. Give your rabbit a secured environment either in your home or apartment. If you choose to set up outside, it should be weatherproof and waterproof, and away from cold and heat. Train your indoor rabbit to use the litter tray and put a cage or crate where it can rest.

Give your lop fresh fruits, hay, and vegetables as well as a rabbit mix plus clean and freshwater. Veggies can be cabbage, dandelions, and kale. Give only the standard diet for good digestion and not lead to obesity. A high-fiber food type is recommended to avoid blockage. Since they have delicate stomachs, they should be given food in a fresh state. For the food dish, the use of earthenware is ideal. They are not chewable. A water bottle should be fixed outside the cage, and the tube going inside the cage has a fresh supply of water. This rabbit requires lots of space to exercise and move plus a hatch for full stretching in any direction.

Breeding

Ideally, the breeding age should be between 5 to 6 months. The 1st litter is born; the doe turns 1-year-old for the reason that her pelvic bones are a fuse and not able to give birth to kits naturally. Litters should be after 3 years old. The average litter is from 3 to 5 litters having 9 individuals. The gestation is from 28 to 31 days and gives birth at the days 30 to 32 days.

Cage and Bedding

An outdoor enclosure needs a wooden hutch that is wood made, having a roof that is waterproof and raised off the ground. A wooden hutch can be used for the indoor enclosure. A plastic or wire base can be used as the base. Space must be adequate for exercising. Wood shavings would be for the floor. Don’t use sawdust as they cause irritations to the eyes. For cold and wet weather, put beddings. On top of the wood, shavings would be straw. Clean the cage regularly take the old food out. Wash the enclosure when necessary.

Characteristics

Cashmere lop is ideal for adults and children and best for children who are more than 10 years old. However, despite being cute, they are not ideal for very young kids. Younger kids should be supervised. They should be given interaction with people. Teach the kids the proper handling of it. When handled, this rabbit is quiet and good-natured. Once they are threatened, they try to escape using their powerful back legs, causing injury to the handler, and it might drop and injure itself.

They spend just the right amount of time to groom. Groom the coat twice a week, at the very least. Don’t let the coat matt because it will be hard to take the tangles. Give the right food to keep the teeth growing well. Do monitoring every day.

In the morning and at night, they are seen as active but sleeps in the daytime. They need toys to chew, dig, crawl through, and climb on. Put several boxes put together for your pet to go from box to another like they are in warren. Include ramps for climbing. Keep them away from your cats or dogs as they may harm your bunny. Don’t let them be stressed by being too exposed to people or other animals.

Common Health Problems

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Pasteurella Multocida(Snuffles)

The symptoms are repeated sneezing or snuffling. Another is mucus in yellow or white color coming out of the nose. This is an incurable and very contagious disease in the respiratory. Snuffle is the sound in the nasal airway, while Pasteurellosis is the bacterium. This disease could lead to pneumonia or worst is death. Don’t use your sick bunny for breeding. It can be cured if the infection has not reached the sinuses. Usually, an antibiotic is used to treat this. It should be given properly.

Diarrhea

There is severe water or mucus in the feces. It is so fatal in 12 to 48 hours.

Types:

Enterotoxemia: this is acute and sudden diarrhea in 4 to 8-week old rabbits leading to death in 12 to 24 hours.
Tyzzer’s Disease: This is similar to enterotoxemia, but it includes sudden death caused by another bacterium.
Coccidiosis: This leads to a severe type of diarrhea.
Mucoid Enteritis: The causes are still uncertain, but the symptom includes bowel blockage.
Epizootic Rabbit Enteropathy: This type is so contagious and affects a lot in the heard.

Dysbiosis

This is a disruption in the rabbit’s gut. It occurs with no obvious cause. It leads to mild diarrhea. Re-supplying, the healthy gut type of bacteria, will normalize the activity in the intestine.

Infectious Rabbit Diseases

Abscesses

There will be a soft and round lump under the bunny’s jawline or anywhere in the body. This is due to staphylococcus infections of Pasteurella.

Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease

This viral disease is devastating and can kill the whole heard in just a few days. This has killed lots of rabbits in Europe and the UK. The outbreak came differently, and vaccines for both have been developed.

Myxomatosis

This is carried by the wild rabbits and transmitted by mosquitoes. This is common in Europe. Some symptoms are being lethargic, a little redness of the eyelids, no appetite, eats very little, increase in body temperature. Chronic signs are lumpy swellings in the eyelids, lips, and face and sometimes the ears too. If the scrotum and vent swell too, then this is myxomatosis. This disease is mostly spread in the autumn and late summer.

Kill the rabbit and burn or bury the carcasses. In endemic, control the insects that would cause the transmission.

Rabbit Syphilis

This is the vent disease. this results in crusty and inflamed sores in the area of genitals. It can spread to the face. An infected one hesitates to breed as it feels discomfort. Infected one can spread it to other animals. Check your pets regularly. Don’t use the bunny for breeding and isolate. It is treated with penicillin.

Mastitis

This is an infection in the mammary glands. Once the doe stops eating, check the milk glands, and she might have a fever. She will need antibiotics to prevent the abscess and the hardening of her milk gland.

Young Doe Syndrome

This is when the doe dies suddenly in 4 to 10 days after having a fine litter. It might not feed her litter and suffer diarrhea. It is caused by enterotoxemia. Keep the cage clean to prevent the infection and give hays regularly.

Parasite Infestations

Ear and fur mites, pinworms, nosema, ringworms, tapeworms, and roundworms.

Non-Infectious

Hairballs, hutch burn, broken back, cannibalism, heat prostration, red urine, sore hocks, and dystocia.

Bladder stones

this is known as the calcium stone. This occurs when a rabbit cannot process the calcium in its kidney.

Bloat

The rabbit’s stomach is stretched by too much gas. The bacteria multiply in large amounts due to improper feeding.

Constipation

It happens when hard feces are hard to release. Molting makes it more complicated.

Malocclusion

This is due to overgrown teeth.

Obesity

This is led by the incorrect diet that is either too dry or too low in the hay.

Pneumonia

This is lung inflammation.

How to Breed

Preparing to Breed

As an owner or a future owner, come up with reasons for breeding. Take note it is a great responsibility that asks for commitment, patience, and time. Do you want to sell them or just raise them as pets or for food consumption? If you haven’t decided yet, think again. For your information, rabbits are next to cats and dogs as commonly raised pets at home.
If you are determined to raise, then research for available breeds. There is a lot to home breeders. choose the pet not just because it is cute, but it must satisfy you. Then, choose the right breed for you. You can base on your preference, on the price and availability. Your purpose in breeding determines the breed. For the purpose of showing or selling, the mate must be of the same breed. Don’t breed full siblings; half-siblings will do.
Do the breeding at the right age. Of course, they should have reached their sexual maturity. A small to medium breed breeds at 6 to 7 months while the large ones are at 8 to 9 months. Make sure your kits have a home to stay. There should also be spare hutches for weaning. Decide what you will after the kits are weaned. Separate the kits according to sex at 8 weeks old. Don’t overcrowd your kids, so they don’t fight and injure each other.

Mating the Rabbits

Breed happy and healthy rabbits. Their physical state is vital inbreeding. Before you breed, take them to the vet for a checkup. They should not be over or underweight as this affects success. Feed them with the right food having the right nutrition. Check the cages and feces as well as the genitals. Aggressive rabbits are not recommended for breeding
Then, put the female in the male’s hutch. The cage will smell the doe and can distract the male. Always bring the female rabbit to the buck.
Don’t leave the pair for 30 minutes. Give more time to mate maybe 2 to 3 times. Stop the breeding when the doe gets anxious or aggressive. They tend to fight if the female is annoyed with the male.
After some days, check the doe’s abdomen for possible pregnancy through checking the heart palpitation. Use your hand to feel the doe’s abdomen. There will be a grape-sized feeling. The pregnancy transpires in 28 to 33 days.

Taking Care of the Pregnant Doe

Give lots of hay and bedding. Put a nesting box on day 25 for nest building. Fill it with hay or straw. Leave some extra materials. She will tend to pluck her hair in the stomach and chest to put in the nest.
The nesting box measures 18″ x 10″ x 10″. The front should be cut in a V-shape. There should be a small wire at the bottom for moisture and urine for draining. Put some paper under absorbing the urine. Make holes in the box for resting.
Give a quiet and peaceful environment for the doe. Let her free from stress. Don’t lift unless you have to do it. On day 28 to 33, she will give birth and will do nesting on day 25 to 27, then giving birth happens. Babies are born at dawn usually.
Cheeping is a sign that the kits are born. The doe cleans the hutch to make sure predators don’t smell the blood. Remove dead kits if there are.

Taking Care of the Doe and Litter After Birth

Offer food to the doe. Give her as much as she can. Increase vegetables, but stop it when the feces get loose. Give her a stroke if she is happy. Let it go out some time to exercise and for you to check the kits. Don’t go near the kits if you think she doesn’t love you. It should not be too cold. Check on the kits too. Be sure they eat normally. Supplements may be needed.
The box and hutch should be clean. It should be sanitized and not smelly. Flies can be attracted and cause some infections. The nest material should be changed.
Let the mother do her routine. Let her out in the daytime. Then at 6 to 8 weeks, wean the baby. Take the mother from the litter. Weaning can cause stress for mothers and babies. You can put the kits by pairs or separately.

How to Hold your Lop

If your lop is new to your home, don’t hold it immediately. Give it some time to feel comfortable and trust you. Put him in a carrier when you move it from another place. Have a quiet time with your lop. They have a good sense when you try to pick them up. Instead, be calm and let it come to you. A quieter time spent with your bunny means more comfort for it. They love to interact with their handlers.

Approach holding food. Walk at a slight angle. Prevent gain weight by giving the right diet and amount. Offer some food as you sit in his area.

Know the hold and touch areas of your bunny. Owners mainly touch the bottom, shoulder, or chest. They are perceptive. If you touch them in those areas, they will think they want to be picked up. Again, give it time to be comfortable with you. As you sit together, touch it all over its body.

Put one hand under its chest, then stroke gently. Make it be used for this act. Use enough pressure that its feet don’t leave the ground. Give it some treats.

Next, put your hand on its bottom. If it feels comfortable that his front leg is off the ground, lift up the back feet. Cup your hand around its bottom; thus, your fingers are wrapped slightly under its body between its legs. Put gentle pressure to lift his back leg up. Front legs must be on the ground. Put back his feet on the ground. Give treats again.

Put your hands in the hold position. Support the bottom and the chest. Put your hand under the chest and run it down under its back before you position around its bottom. Lift the front fee and put it down on the floor. Leave treats on the ground.

Pick your lop up. Gently pick it up with your hands under its chest and around its bottom. Then move it slowly to your lop. To prevent it from kicking, hold the back legs. Increase the time of holding it. Give some more treats.

Hold it firmly and frequently. Make it feel secure. Hold it every day. You should read his body language too. After knowing how to hold it, teach your children how to do it too. Guide and supervise them.

Fun Facts

Rabbits or bunnies are not rodents but Lagomorphs instead.
Rabbits have 2 sets of upper front teeth.
Rabbits and hares are not related. They are too different. Rabbits are sociable while hares are solitary and live above the ground.
Rabbits were first seen by the Phoenician traders on their voyage to Spain.
In the 11th century, rabbits were introduced first and domesticated in England for fur, meat, and sport.
French monks did the breeding of various colors of rabbits.
English lop was the first and true fancy breed. Angora is next on the list.
Rabbit meat has lower cholesterol and fat content compared to beef and chicken.
Rabbits are herbivores eating grasses, small herbs, growing trees, and tree bark.
Their teeth grow continuously from 2 to 5 millimeters a week. Chewing will grind the teeth down.
Kits’ eyes are not open until they turn 2 weeks old.
They have 28 teeth.
They are active at dawn and dusk.
They sweat at the pads of their feet.
They regulate their body temperature through their ears.
They purr like a cat.
They have 18 toenails.
They are near-sighted.
They can move their ears independently.
They can chew 120 times per minute.
They have 17, 000 taste buds.
They can run 35 to 45 miles per hour.
They sprain their urine in their territory.
A happy rabbit jumps, twists, or hops. This is called happy hop or binky.
Their heart rate is from 120 to 300 beats a minute.
They don’t hibernate.
They can jump for 1 to 2 feet high.
Their droppings are fertilizers for gardens.

Different Sounds Rabbit Make

Squeaking. Making this sound is an indication of being happy or other good feelings. However, it could convey apprehension and frustration. A deep sound implies feeling trapped. For example, he wants you to stop petting him, for he wants to play alone.
Growling. Feeling fierce can make your bunny growl. It means they are afraid. Be cautious about it. It could indicate nipping, lunging, and nipping later.
Chattering Teeth. Don’t you worry about this sound? It only means your rabbit is in a peaceful and content state, maybe after a stroke on his fur. A noisy chattering could somehow mean something, however. It could be a sign of pain or illness. If the sound is too much, take it to the vet.
Foot Stamping. They are nervous and afraid. An unfamiliar sound to them makes them think there is a predator nearby. Stamping the feet means a danger or threat is coming.
Honking Sounds. They make this sound because of joy or thrill. They woo their mates and make this sound. A male honking wants to mate with a doe.
Screeching Sounds. A loud screech is a sign of fear, perhaps a dog barking or something is hurting him.

Making your Rabbit Happy and Healthy

Keep a tip-top hutch. The hutch should be 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, having a solid bottom. Clean it and pack it with straw.
Stay on top of your bunny’s diet. rabbits have a complex digestive system. Then, give your rabbit all the nutrition it needs. Grass or hay is good for their digestion. Leafy green veggies and herbs are good, but carrots and other root crops should be given in small amounts.
Encourage plenty of exercises. Lack of physical exercise can make your rabbit sick, overweight, and furry. Let it out of the cage once a day. Make use of their playtime as an exercise.
Check for signs of illness or injury. Rabbits disguise their illness. Do a regular check on your bunny. Check all parts of their bodies.
Playtime is important. Prevent their boredom from managing stress also by giving toys. It will make them healthy.
Bunny-proof your home. Keep your rabbit safe by making your house safe. Cover your electric covers. Move the potentially toxic out of their reach. Protect your furniture’s leg with plastic.
Spay or neuter your rabbit. Spay the female and neuter the males.
Keep a clean hutch. Clean and change the bedding once a week.
Stay aware of the weather. Give proper insulation. Don’t expose them to severe weather conditions as they can get sick. Put it inside when it is too cold.
Train your rabbit. Stimulate their brains by teaching them some tricks.
Guard against predators. Secure your pet by protecting it from predators like cats, snakes, or dogs. Raise the hutch from the floor. Cover large holes where predators can enter.
Get annual vet checkups. Bring your pet to the vet for regular checkups.

Teaching Basic Tricks

Step 1: Hierarchy of Prompts

Hands-on prompts like picking and spinning in a circular motion are at the bottom.
Put a treat on the bunny’s nose. Use the sweet smell to make it round in circles.
Make a circular gesture using your hand.
With treats and training, your bunny can do tricks with verbal prompts.
A simple word command would be used instead of pointing or grunting.

Step 2: Begin Training

Begin with the use of threats, verbal, and gesture. Your voice should be strong, but don’t shout. Lead using treat and gesture. More treats will be needed to make your bunny follow.
Start by calling it by its name. let it stand in front of you with a treat in your hand. Then say the command and the prompt. After completing the trick, let it have the treat and praise.
When your bunny knows what to do, use gestures, but no treats this time. Lessen the prompt. Use a single word.

Step 3: Learning Multiple Tricks and Beyond

Teach another trick like “around me.” Start from the beginning having gestures, treats, and prompts in words. Then reinforce with 2 separate commands. Mix the tricks and switch Spin and around me.
Then, give breaks and praise verbally. Don’t give lots of raisins as a treat.

Litter Training

To litter-train, neutering and spaying should be done first.

Get the right box. Take more than one. They like spacious rooms for stretching. Allow pairs to have enough room. A medium to the large litter box is okay. There should be 2 litter boxes.
Choose to bed like newspapers or animal bedding, wood stove pellets, and others. don’t choose the clay litters, cedar, or cat litters as it can cause problems in the respiratory.
Don’t use hays that are smelly, moldy, or dusty. This can kill your rabbit.
Choose where to put it. A room without a carpet could be a good place to start.
Put a towel or rug on the slippery floor.
Trim your pet’s nails.
Confine it for a while. Don’t let it out until it urinates in the box.
Fill your litter box well. Start with 1 inch of litter. Cover it with hay.
Stay in the room as it enters the training area. When it leaves the droppings on the floor, put your bunny and the dropping in the litter box. Tell her what she did. Put your bunny in the cage. Repeat this until it masters.
Keep the litter box dirty while training happens for the bunny to realize the purpose of what she is doing.
When the first training is successful. Do the same step in 3 different rooms.
Use lots of litter boxes. Clean up the dirt and put it in the litter box. Don’t scold.
If they use the litter box, give treats.

Perks of Owning a Rabbit

Rabbits are cute. Bunnies or rabbits are very adorable. Who can resist their cuteness and fluffy body?
There are lots of breeds to choose from. You choose from varieties of bunnies out there. Find the one that suits you.
Quiet. They are quite unlike other pets out there. You will not get complains from your neighbors.
Clean. Bunnies are very clean. They groom themselves. If trained, they use a litter box.
No Need for Walking. You don’t need to take them outside for a walk, but they do need exercise too.
Stress Relief. Owners relieve their stress by stroking their pets.
Entertaining. They are entertaining, seeing them interact with you.
Sense of Responsibility. Raising a rabbit makes you a responsible owner. It is rewarding and good for the owner and family, as well.

Availability: Where to Get One?

You can go to any rabbit pet stores, or you can ask at the Cashmere Lop Rabbit Breeders Association to ask where to buy a Cashmere Lop Rabbit breed. You can also visit online sites if they have a Cashmere rabbit breed.

How to Care

Your cashmere rabbit will live a happier, healthier, and longer life by providing them basic needs. Here are tips on how to take care of a pet rabbit:

1. Provide a Safe Indoor Housing for Rabbits

You can place your rabbit in a puppy pen or a large cage of the rabbit. Your rabbit is under your care, so give a great size to live where your rabbit can hop and play around inside it. You can put their cage everywhere inside your house, especially in your living room. Avoid letting them stay outdoors to be safe from predators. Give them also a time

2. Provide Appropriate Food

The diet of rabbits includes hay, and it should be given to them daily or keep them with a hay every 24 hours. But baby rabbits need pellets. Supplement them with fresh veggies and fiber-rich pellets and water every day.

3. Set Up a Comfortable Litter Box

It is natural for your rabbits to poop and pee, and it is for you to give them an area. Provide a box where they can poop and pee and place it on the other side of their cage. Put a sheet of a recycled newspaper at the bottom of the box then put hay above it.

4. Groom Your Rabbit

Rabbits are naturally neat animals, and they wash-down themselves regularly. But you should still give your time to groom them by brushing your rabbit to take out all their excess fur to avoid them swallow it because it can lead to digestive issues.