The group of rabbits is commonly known as a colony, nest, or sometimes warren. Warren is usually referred from where is the place that the rabbits live. While in a group of young rabbits that produce from one mating is raised as a litter. Also, the group of domestic rabbits that lives together is occasionally called a herd.
Natural Structure of the Rabbit Herd Handling
Most pet owners or rabbit lovers heard about the rabbit warrens, but most have never apprehended about the colony rabbits. The two terms regarding rabbits are mostly alike. The rabbit warrens are naturally developing like a social network, where there are a number of rabbits that both sexes and all rabbits with different ages will love in a single place that has tunnels and holes.
While the colony rabbits are the group of rabbits that are known to be the domesticated type of such social systems where the rabbits are preserved together as groups rather than individually, it’s a procedure that gains precious small documentation and grows in popularity due to different causes. Here are some reasons that follow a precautionary note.
What Management of the Population of a Colony Have?
When the mature rabbits of two sexes are lived together with a portion of food and water, that is the beginning that their population grows. The populations of the rabbit commonly burst out when they lived in the right environmental condition. When the water, as well as the food, is readily accessible, the rabbit’s populations will keep on growing until the pen can reach a very high solidity.
Otherwise, when the population of the rabbit becomes high in number, they become crowded, the disease may occur, they even compete with the food, and any other risk regarding their health may become a serious issue. While if the colony of rabbits was totally not controlled, but still there is available food and water, their population may definitely reach up to a fair point where the newborn rabbits can be the balance of the rabbits’ impermanence rates. Such impermanency belongs to the young kits, and the adult lifespan may drop because of the stress of being overcrowded.
The mentioned condition may sound messy, but it eventually easy to avoid with the help of different ways such as:
- Limit the number of adults with at least a single buck with an up to eight does. Such a ratio of one to eight is commonly deemed to be a great limit in order to have a very effective rabbit breeding group.
- Young kits born into a group should be removed and raised separately. For those rabbit farms that purposely want to expand the population of their rabbits should be selected to create a new group.
- To manage the population growth, you may also do a limitation of time that the bucks spent with the does. Usually, the doe continuously attended by a buck; it may have for at least six litters every year. When it reaches for up to 8 to 10 kits per litter, these can possibly boost the population of the rabbits very rapidly. However, if you are going to restrict access to the buck, it may be bred for only 1 to 3 times annually. This can be done in many different methods, such as alternating the bucks in various groups of does and by keeping the bucks and does totally individually and only permitting breeding if needed.
This can be the colony management can require to engage along with the rabbit’s owner long term wants for their group of rabbits.
Basic Requirements for Having a Colony Rabbits
When it considers the usual need of the group of the rabbit or colony, the housing must need to be very flexible. The rabbits commonly don’t ask for much-specialized housing as well as materials. The following are the common requirements of having a colony.
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Rabbits need a shelter that can at least have access to sunlight, snow, rain, and most especially wind. Luckily, such shelter does not prefer to be a very expensive and complicated one. So when the rabbits are simply placed out in the field surrounding, at least provide a small raising platform. Like for example, a lower table that can play as the basic shelter against the sun as well as the possible precipitation.
You may also use a lower hoop house, but eventually, there is a possibility that the rabbit may chew on the plastic. You may use a tarp string in a clothesline under the shed similar to a truck canopy than commonly seen on blocks.
There are also other stationery cupboard designs that assimilate a door that opens to a little enclosure. Adding an elevated hutch can add some ramp down to the ground so that the rabbits can accessibly learn to go up and down by just themselves. Most mobile meadow pens have a hybrid design where a part of the pen is open to its one end with only a wire mesh that serves as containment. This kind of field pen gives great protection, especially during summer, spring, and fall climate conditions.
A contrast from this theme is to develop a hoop house or a low tunnel using wire mesh, and then you just lay a tarp over the part of the rabbit’s enclosure. In any shelter you create, most importantly is such shelter can move with the rabbit pen beyond the field.
The variety, as well as the number of feeders that is required when having a colony of rabbit, must depend on how many numbers of rabbits are about to feed and even the foods that they are eating. Like for example, a group of young litters that are fed by a rabbit pellet control may only be required for at least one to two number of large rabbit feeders that are organized somewhere inside the pen.
Such groups of the littermates can be fed an organized homegrown feed such as hayrack, few trays that need in case of wet items like the root crops, large leafy greens, and other different kinds of vegetables. Such a colony of littermates in one field pen may require a very small secondary feed when they are placed in a high standard grassland.
3. Supplying Water
Just like the feeders, the water supply can also depend on the kind and the number of feeding needs. The most important motivations are the number of rabbits each pen as well as the dryness of the food that is being provided. The level of half-gallon bottled water can hang on the side of the individual cages and most ideally appropriate for about up to for adult rabbits as well as a litter of young kits.
Besides such adults, rabbits may need more supply of water, so bottled water must be refilled for more than once a day. Like for example, the rabbit owner can simply come up with a few additional water bottles. Just refill and change them less often.
On the other hand, the owner of the colony can install an auto waterer system that does not demand to do water refilling more often. You can just simply use a five-gallon bucket with a few lines to the whole pen to help water the several numbers of rabbits and can refill within every 2 to 3 days. You may consider it as a work saver, but definitely not during cold climates. Because if the water lines can freeze, such a method can rapidly turn into a huge pain to face.
In most commercial rabbits, operations are sheltered under an indoor climate-controlled environment where they can easily manipulate the temperatures and can prevent colder climates. But for those small scale rabbit colony owners, they can just simply consider a common setup and can install insulation, heat as well as often bottled water changes during colder climates.
Commonly, most rabbits really don’t need a piece of bedding equipment. They don’t even demand any bedding at all as they can just lay in a wired enclosure or even in field pens. Even the pet rabbit that trained to just lay in a litter box. However, when it comes to a colony or a group of rabbits in one area, bedding for rabbits can be considered to become an important matter.
In any moment for an individual rabbit or colony, rabbits can definitely be housed on the grounds. They can rapidly adapt any native vegetation up until there is no one left but an unveiled dirt. Consequently, their existence on the spot of the ground will be accumulated by dirt, and it surely becomes an impenetrable spot. Such conditions the urine, as well as the droppings, may start to develop within the pen. Even if the owner may clean the urine and droppings every day, there is still a speck of dirt on that surface that begins to deteriorate. This situation about bedding can become a problem for most owners.
A group of rabbits is referred to as a colony. As a rabbit owner, you may come up with different materials to bed down their colony rabbits. Using straw or hay are both very suitable and serve as bedding for rabbits. Rabbits love to eat hay, and providing hay can be considered for them as eating free choice and is highly advisable for the rabbit’s digestive function. In other conditions, they only need to have enough straw or hay to just soak up the urine and to maintain the droppings from going down. Such a method of bedding can be removed routinely and just simply composted it.